It's held with coarse threaded contruction screws now. Used a slide hammer nailpuller, made my cut and NOTHING. Harbor Freight nails & staples are ideal for secure fastening of trim and molding. And when it comes to the inevitable expansion and contraction of the solid hardwood planks, that’s definitely something to consider. But, nails are more forgiving with movement. Makes me feel good when the wind really blows and I'm on the 2nd floor but one time I just wanted to get to a 16' X 16' area. Well, staples have a firmer grip on your wood planksmeaning the boards are more secure. I built my house with adhesive and nails. Use a router or saw to cut openings, and finish it with a good quality stain or paint. Fasten the T1-11 siding to the studs with galvanized nails or exterior grade screws. framing and cut window and door openings with a utility knife. Ringshank nails are not really any easier. Wrap and staple Type-1 tar paper or house wrap to 16 o.c. If you want a real challenge try to demo sheathing (or floors) that are first held by construction adhesive and then stapled. Try getting the legs of the staple out when broken or worse when rusted. Staples are lighter guage and break easier than nails even when new. Staples are usually overdriven and hard to grab with anything. 1) If (big IF in my book) staples have greater holding power they are obviously harder to get out even if they were shaped the same as nails.Ģ) Getting something out requires that you can get hold of the fastener with a tool. If staples have the greatest holding poser, why would demoing them be a prob?Think about your question a minute. Ode says 'Staples have the greatest holding power, and if we ever get to demo, we quickly realize the coated staples can be a real problem.'

Stapled nail